Sicily wine
Contrasts are not the least of those things in which Sicily abounds. So perhaps it is not surprising that this ancient island boasts one of Italy's most progressive wine industries or that a region noted chiefly in the past for strong and often sweet amber Marsala and Moscato has switched the emphasis toward lighter, fruitier winesÒmainly white but also red. Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, has more vineyards than any other Italian region. Yet, with the emphasis shifting from quantity to quality, wine production has diminished recently to slightly less than that of Veneto.
A major share of the DOC is represented by Marsala, a wine originated by English merchant traders two centuries ago. Marsala remains Sicily's proudest wine despite the not so distant era of degradation when it was used mainly for cooking or flavored with various syrups and sweeteners. Recently it has enjoyed a comeback among connoisseurs, who favor the dry Marsala Vergine and Superiore Riserva with the warmly complex flavors that rank them with the finest fortified wines of Europe.
Wine
In Sicily the only other DOC wine made in significant quantity is the
pale white, bone dry Bianco d'Alcamo, which is now part of the broader
Alcamo appellation. Moscato di Pantelleria, from the remote isle off
the coast of Tunisia, is among the richest and most esteemed of Italian
sweet wines in the Naturale and Passito Extra versions. Malvasia delle
Lipari, from the volcanic Aeolian isles, is a dessert wine as exquisite
as it is rare.
Such international varieties as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet
Sauvignon and the Pinots show real promise in Sicily. But some of the
island's finest wines come from native varieties, notably Nero d'Avola
(or Calabrese), Nerello Mascalese and Perricone (or Pignatello) and
the reds and Inzolia and Grecanico among the whites. Sicily has taken
the lead in winemaking in the modern south as producers seem increasingly
determined to live up to the promise that was already admired millennia
ago by the Greeks and Romans.